Module 5: Conservation Academy, Basil, & Amakhala (Part I)

Work hard. Play hard. 

Our time at the Conservation Academy has been much different than the weeks leading up to this point. Dr. Robert Crane joined us and taught a few lessons on climate, and Wayne (the Conservation Academy owner) and his two dogs took us on a hike to explore the farm’s biomes.

Most of our time at the Conservation Academy has not been scheduled, giving the students time to work on assignments and rejuvenate a bit. Personally, I have appreciated the pool, making time for workouts, and having free time for my own assignments! Professionally, I have enjoyed helping the students through their assignments. Neil recognizes that his teaching style will challenge some learners, and I am a great example of someone who would be challenged. When given the choice, I prefer structure, deadlines, and details. This program does not cater to those preferences. 

All assignments are due on March 27. Students should be drafting and revising throughout the program. I am a resource for students with assignments, but it took me until Grahamstown to feel comfortable in this role. While we were in the Karoo, we split the groups into two, so half of the students had work time with Neil daily. In order to facilitate this, I was in the field daily, missing most of the assignment instructions and explanations. Sitting down with all of the drafts helped me fill in the blanks and allowed me to feel comfortable giving feedback. Now, I am trying to figure out what Neil is looking for in each assignment so that I can provide better, more relevant feedback.  

On Sunday, we met a man named Basil, and our time with him was a highlight of the trip for me. Before we met Basil, we had been told that he has a pet crocodile, which he refers to as a “flat dog.” Disappointingly, we didn’t get to meet the crocodile, but Basil was plenty entertaining! We spent just a few hours with him, but in that time we learned so much about baboon paths, the biome, snakes, the Xhosa and their weapons, and the colonization of South Africa. All of this information was shared with gusto and jokes. Basil had a few helpers with him, and together they served us beef stew prepared over fire for dinner. The meal reminded me of Hobo Stew from Britt (Iowa) HoboDays.

We also spent a day at the Amakhala (Private)Game Reserve. Unlike Addo or the Karoo, Amakhala was founded as a tourist business, but also plays an important role in conservation. Some farmers who were struggling with hard times decided to put their land together and form a game reserve. The families collaborate to run the reserve, but have independent lodges on their respective land. Each lodge has a different flavor and reaches different audiences. Game drives are pretty well limited to lodge guests and school groups. Amakhala was willing to work with us because of our educational goals. Before we started the game drive, we got to learn about the history of the reserve, the business’s challenges, and ask some questions. Then, we went out to look for animals. We didn’t have high expectations because of the heat (104 F), but were pleasantly surprised to find: a giraffe named Timmy, the back end of an elephant, ostriches, antelope, zebras, a monkey, and more!

While drafting this blog, I managed to deleted nearly all of my (100+) Grahamstown photos. Thank you to Connor for sharing photos with me!

Module 4: Addo Elephant Park

After George we went to Addo for time at the Addo Elephant Park. We hoped to get a drive in on our first day, but a late start and long distances kept that from happening. Instead, we had dinner at the restaurant next door, Hazel’s. For starters, we had tomato or butternut soup. My tomato soup was amazing and is like the crushed tomato soup I make at home! Then, it was back to The Aardvark Guesthouse for a good night’s sleep. My room reminded me of Kenzie’s Cottage in Moab, Utah, because it was cozy and space efficient.

We woke up early the next morning to hit the park when it opened at 7 AM. We saw a few new animals, including buffalo (one of the Big 5) warthogs, secretary birds, and the black-headed heron, but most everything else we had seen in the Karoo. Some students felt disappointed by “only seeing zebras” and I tried to remind them of how privileged we were to feel that way. We hit the park again that night with the hopes of seeing more. Besides a porcupine and an owl flying away, we didn’t see much. However, we did hear a lion roar, which was pretty neat. Unfortunately, we didn’t find the lion and we left feeling pretty disappointed.

Buffalo

 Zebras

 Black-Headed Heron

The next morning we got up a bit later and went back to the park in search of the elephants. We found a whole herd of elephants at the watering hole and were lucky enough to watch the buffalo join them.

There were also a few warthogs hanging around. Everyone felt pretty good and felt even better after a feast of a lunch at The Cattle Baron. We spent the rest of the day getting stuff done back at The Aardvark. For me, my day was spent reading and reviewing journals. I really enjoy this time. I get a few grumbles from students about having to journal, but it’s really great to read about how they’re interpreting their experience and making meaning of their time in South Africa.

We packed and loaded our trailers the next morning and drove through the park from the north gate to the south exit on our final day in Addo. We didn’t see new animals, and the overcast conditions kept the elephants in hiding, but we got really close to some animals, like the zebras.

The elephants in Addo were a real highlight for me and the students. I also appreciated the signs warning us to drive around dung beetles. It was funny to sit and wait as they crossed the road. Addo was nice and refreshing. Our days were pretty relaxed, we enjoyed our accommodations, and we had some great food, too! I think Addo has a special place in all of our hearts.

After we left Addo, we went to Grahamstown. We’ll be staying at the Conversation Academy until March 5, which is our longest stop of the trip. 

Module 3: NMMU, George Campus (Part II)

This is our classroom! 

During most of the Parks & People program, we get to look around in awe and say to yourself, "This is our classroom!" Occasionally, we spend time inside, and it is even more rare that we spend time in a traditional classroom. NMMU gave us the opportunity to hear from some experts in the School of Natural Resource Management. While I didn't expect the classroom environment would differ much from U.S. colleges, I was surprised by just how little was different. If I would have walked into the classroom without knowing where I was, I would have assumed I was in the United States. Although, the baboons that seemed to be everywhere would have clued me in! We were warned that the baboons would be out and we would need to lock our doors. One morning, while driving across campus, we saw some baboons raiding a house. While we felt bad for the people who lived there, we couldn't help but laugh as the baboons came and went from the house and ate out of a Pick n Pay bag.

Wednesday afternoon we moved on to an amazing classroom - the great outdoors! We started our session at an overlook so we could get a better view of Wilderness Beach, which is part of the Garden Route National Park. The students' task for the day was to create an ecological systems diagram. Then, we went to Big Tree, at Garden Route National Park, where we had lunch and the students continued working on their diagrams.

While the itinerary said "Wilderness Beach," some students were disappointed that it didn't mean swimming. Instead, we met a local who is involved in the conservation of Wilderness Beach, as well as some staff from SANParks, who explained what efforts are in place to conserve the beach.

On Thursday we headed to Sedgefield to meet "The Fisher Ladies." Sedgefield is a popular tourist and retiree destination, so our experience was a bit off the beaten path. "The Fisher Ladies" spend their days fishing with the hopes of feeding their families. The fish is typically their only source of meat, as any other meat is too costly. The women go to the water early in the morning and sometimes stay all day. Some days they have good luck and other days, like the day we visited, they leave empty handed. It was humbling to know that "The Fisher Ladies" were willing to spend their day with us, even though it was prime time for oyster gathering. 

We all found a small stick in the brush to use as a fishing rod and we tied on fishing line and hooks. We found our fishing spot and dug a bigger stick into the sand. Then, we threw out our lines, tied our lines to the longer stick (in the sand), and topped the stick with a self-made alarm. The alarms were soda cans with a rock inside, to alert us if something bit. Sadly, none of us got to hear the alarm sound! Regardless, we had a good time and were appreciative of the time we spent with "The Fisher Ladies." 

One unexpected adventure on this trip was "shark tagging." We went on a boat (half the group went each day) and tried to bait sharks for research. On my day, we watched a boat with shark cages have great luck in attracting the sharks, but we took until the very end. It was a neat experience being so close to an animal we fear so much. Part of the purpose of the research is to help people realize that sharks are not as dangerous as we like to make them out to be. 

My birthday was the last day in George. I was appreciative of the students who helped me shellebrate my birthday, especially those who were my roommates at NMMU. Jan, who had been with us in the Karoo and is faculty at NMMU, surprised me with a birthday gift...a South Africa mug. The thoughtfulness of others really warmed my heart and was a great way to close our time in George. 

Module 3: NMMU, George Campus (Part I)

"Everyone can rise above their circumstances and achieve success if they are dedicated to and passionate about what they do." - Nelson Mandela 

After visiting the ostrich farm on February 7, we moved on to George and stayed there until Monday, February 15. The drive was beautiful and I enjoyed all the green in the landscape. 

This module allowed us to slow our pace a bit and enjoy the beautiful NMMU George campus. I ended my last blog with an explanation of my role with Parks & People. I have to be honest in saying, I didn't really know how to explain my role in the early part of February. Some down time and some challenges were what helped me realize why I'm in South Africa with these 12 students. A special shout out to Nick for being there to listen, even from halfway across the globe <3

We officially started the week out by having tea with the Campus Principal, Prof Quinton Johnson. In the United States, he would be known as a President or Chancellor. He was incredibly knowledgeable about U.S. Politics and our group really appreciated time with him. 

When we traveled to the local school, it was amazing to see how interested the students were in us. They peeked in the windows as we prepared for the play before school started. Their enthusiasm energized us! 

After we perform the play once, we let the students come up and perform. It's always fun to watch how the kids take lead for the students, but give it their own flavor! 

After visiting the school, we went next door to the Seven Passes Initiative, a non-profit dedicated to "building a safe environment of opportunity for young people and their families in the Hoekwil and Touwsranten rural area." We really liked how this organization focused on helping the children become the best they can be in whatever they're passionate about. If a child wanted to be a gardener, the idea was to help that child become the best possible gardener. The passion in the organization was inspiring. 

There were some paintings on display in the Seven Passes Initiative, which caught the eye of our group. The paintings were done by a 10th grade boy who was living with his uncle. He had been trying to sell the paintings online, so we decided to hold an auction within our group to help sell the artwork. Every painting was purchased and we knew that the rand from this auction could possibly change this young man's life. 

As I prepared for this trip, I knew little about what I would be doing or even where we would be traveling. What I know now is that everywhere we go has something to offer. Parks & People has the potential to change the lives of our students, the faculty/staff, and even those we encounter along our journey. This program is capable of cultivating passion and empowering those touched by Parks & People. 

Travel Day - February 7

Make time for fun. 

On February 7 we packed up and left the Karoo behind. On our way to the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University (NMMU) campus we stopped at The Highgate Ostrich Show Farm for a tour. It was nice to make time for fun. We have a lot of fun every day, but we get busy easily. This detour was enjoyed by all!

Our tour guide was quite eccentric and had funny quips for most everything we did. At one point, he told us to stop looking at the ostriches because he was prettier. I must admit, ostriches aren't the prettiest animals, but they are cool! We are doing a play about how the ostrich got it's long neck in the local schools, so it was fun to learn even more. The female is gray and the male black. The female guards the eggs during the day and the male at night. Their feather color helps them blend in to their surroundings. As we teach the kids, this is CAMOUFLAGE! 

Aren't those eggs HUGE? One egg is the equivalent of two dozen chicken eggs...wowza! The eggs are used just like chicken eggs, especially by local bakers. The egg shells are so tough that a human can stand on them without causing any damage.   

We also got to hold some baby ostriches! They were fun to catch. The students loved holding the baby ostriches and I was a bit worried we were going to end up with one in someone's purse.

We also had the opportunity to sit on or ride an ostrich. Charlene was the first student to pose, and she really wore those feathers well!

At the end of our tour, there was an ostrich race. It was short, but fun to watch! These guys were much more comfortable on the ostrich than our students were! 

While our students had good questions and discussions about the ethics of the ostrich farm, a good day was had by all! At times, I almost feel like I should be doing more "work," but I have realized that my presence is the most important part of my job here. Being present allows me to have good conversations with the students, whether it's a conversation about the ethics of an ostrich farm, or a challenging conversation, just being here and also being new to the experience seems to be what the students need. Much like being on duty, the work is ongoing. From the time I wake up until the time I go to sleep (and even in between), I have to be ready for whatever South Africa throws my way. I appreciate when we can make time for fun.

Module 2: The Karoo National Park

“If you want to travel fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together.” – African Proverb  

I apologize that the blog is coming out slower than intended. Internet access is a luxury in South Africa and we’ve been without good access for the past two weeks. I’m hoping that will change when we hit our next destination, Addo!

On Saturday (1/30) we departed Cape Town for The Karoo. Our departure marked the official start of our cross-country journey. We won’t return to Cape Town until the end of March, for our departure from South Africa. The change of scenery during our drive to The Karoo was amazing. A real highlight for me was seeing baboons on the side of the road.

Our trip took about four hours, and the last half hour was spent on a gravel road. We didn’t see much life from the car, but that would change once we got into the national park. Our module asked if fracking should be allowed in the Karoo. As we drove in, I heard many responses like, “FRACK THIS!” We stayed in what felt like a YMCA camp on site at the Karoo National Park. The 9 Penn State women were lucky enough to have me as a roommate. We weren’t alone in the room, the bugs and “wandering spiders” also liked the space. I remember lying in bed the first night wondering if the students would make it through the week.

The focus of our second module was field research, which we completed alongside faculty and students from Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University (NMMU), George Campus. Based on the conditions, you might be able to guess that South Africa National Parks (SAN Parks) was happy to have a research team in the field.

Our days started early so we could hit the field by 6 AM to avoid the sun. Even with an early start, there was no hiding that we were in a desert. Our time in the field was spent checking traps, which were intended to survey the species of the Karoo. While we came up with a few lizards and three snakes, we never yielded much, and some traps were not fruitful at all. Another way we surveyed the land was by completing transient walks, in which we would flip over rocks quickly to see if we could find a creature hiding underneath. One of our students, Connor, loved seeing what he could find, and was quite productive! Connor found a snake, many lizards, and a few scorpions.

Some of our group members also saw a rhino (I did not). We found zebras, ostriches, more baboons, kudus, and more! Unfortunately, we never came across the lions. We were told by multiple cars that we were “just 10 minutes away,” but we never had luck.  

We also searched the park for dung, which would be used for soil research and in one of the NMMU student’s thesis. A fun fact about advanced (masters and doctoral) degrees in South Africa: there is no coursework to accompany the required research. My understanding is that the degree is earned for the completion of research alone.

The roads we drove were like an adventure course and I got some serious driving experience in the Karoo! I got the kind of experience that I would never want with my personal vehicle…

We went into Beaufort West on Friday to showcase our play at a local elementary. Going to the schools has been a real highlight for many of the students and me. While we were there, we saw some mad dance skills, and were really amused by the songs the students wanted to sing to us, like Watch Me (Whip/Nae Nae).

Our nights were spent together over dinner. Then, about the time the sun went down, most everyone went to bed. Not only did the students survive the Karoo, as we pulled away I heard many students saying how much they were going to miss the Karoo. After a week of hard work and lots of sweat, many felt that we should not frack it, there’s too much to lose. 

Days Three and Four at Robben Island

Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world. – Nelson Mandela

Robben Island is about 7 kilometers away from Cape Town and is accessible by ferry. Our group loaded up early on Sunday (1/24) and took off for the island. As we approached, we saw some great ocean life and were pleased to be greeted by penguins and tortoises at Robben Island.

Robben Island is a World Heritage Site and has served many different purposes, including a place to cure leprosy, a military base, and most famously, a prison. Most people who visit the island arrive by ferry, take a bus tour, and depart. We were fortunate enough to have a more in-depth experience. Neil was able to make arrangements for us to stay overnight at the island, in partnership with EducoAfrica. We stayed overnight in part of the former prison.

As we go through this program (Parks & People), I make it a point to remind the students how fortunate we are to have experiences beyond what the average tourist will encounter. From what we have been told, we are also experiencing many sites that are too cost-prohibitive for many South Africans.  Some recent political turmoil caused the rand to drop from about 13 rand:1 USD to about 16 rand:1 USD, making for harder times in South Africa.

During the first day, we met our guide and walked part of the island. We enjoyed the wildlife and were able to go inside the desalinization plant, in which Robben Island takes ocean water and converts it to potable water. From personal experience, I wouldn’t encourage drinking the water on Robben Island, and I think others in the group would agree with me. We also learned that there are employees who live on the island. Since the homes are part of a World Heritage Site, the families are unable to make changes to the exterior of their homes. While the homes are in decent condition now, the strict rules pose question marks for the future of Robben Island. While walking past one house, Danielle made contact with a family, who invited us into their home. After we toured, we were asked for a picture together.

We woke up early Monday the morning to watch the sunrise, but were greeted by overcast skies. Nobody was too upset though, because we saw quite a few whales swimming out in the ocean.

(Don’t look too hard for the whales, I didn’t capture them, just a nice shot of the ocean!)

After breakfast, we went on a tour of the prison. Our guide, Tom, was formerly a prisoner at Robben Island. Tom explained that criminal prisoners and political prisoners, like Nelson Mandela, were kept separate. Also, the prisoners were treated differently in accordance with skin color. The black prisoners endured the worst treatment, including shortages of food and limited prison clothing. While nobody expected the prison to be glamorous, the treatment of prisoners was horrendous. Any positive pieces of notes, like “I love you” messages, were physically cut out before the note was passed along. Tom also shared that prisoners were given a blue pill said to cure sexual desire. That blue pill permanently damaged genitalia, later ruining many relationships. Our hearts were quite heavy after the prison tour.

My role as a student affairs practitioner is unique in South Africa. Like the students, I am experiencing these things for the first time. Yet, I am hoping to help them make meaning from everything we do. Robben Island is a place we’ll never forget. For some students, the experience was heavy and eye-opening, and other students didn’t feel immersed, as if they’d need to be locked into a cell to fully encapsulate the experience. Regardless, we’ll take the lessons we learned at Robben Island with us as we travel through South Africa.